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Keeping people safe while caring for pets during the COVID-19 outbreak

To all our valuable clients and their pets, we at the Veterinary Center will continue to stay open to care for ill pets during this difficult time, but to ensure the health and safety of you, your pets, and our staff, we are implementing some new protocols:

  • Our waiting room is very small, and our exam rooms are even smaller, making social distancing impossible. Therefore, for the health and safety of both pet owners and our staff, we will continue to ask pet owners to hand off their pets in carriers to our staff in the parking lot outside the Center. Pet owners will not be allowed inside the Center. Instead, staff members will carefully remove pets from their carriers inside the building and then return carriers to pet owners in the parking lot. No other personal objects (toys, blankets, etc.) will be taken into the building.
  • Pet owners will be asked to provide detailed accounts on the phone to the staff about what is going on with their pets. Owners are welcome to listen on their phones to the appointment in progress as it goes on in the exam room and should feel free to ask questions as the doctor comes up with recommended plans for treatment.
  • Once the staff and the pet owner have agreed on a treatment plan for a pet, owners will be asked to sign permission for treatment online and can either wait in their cars in the parking lot until their pet’s care is complete, or they can return later to the Center at a time they work out with the staff to pick up their pets.

All payment for services will be due at the time of treatment, as usual, and will be processed over the phone. We are sorry if these new policies inconvenience our clients in any way, but in order to keep our staff healthy so that we may be there to treat your pets, we feel that these steps are necessary. We cannot compromise on these new policies and risk the health of our staff. Please be patient during these trying times so that we can all get through this safely and not compromise our health or the health of our beloved pets.

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  • Monday-Thursday: 9am-6pm
  • Friday: 9am-5pm
  • Saturday: 9am-2pm
  • Sunday: Emergency Phone Consultations Only
Tortoise Vet in Bedford Hills, NY

Tortoise Vet in Bedford Hills, NY

Behavior

In general, tortoises are outgoing, active animals. While they start very small as hatchlings, many of them, such as the huge Sulcata (African spurred) tortoise, can grow quite large. Thus, before purchasing a tortoise, you must consider how much space you have available to house a tortoise. In addition, many tortoises live dozens of years. Before getting a tortoise, you also have to consider whether you are able to make such a long-term commitment. Call our tortoise vet in Bedford Hills, NY today!

Healthcare

All tortoises should be examined by an exotic animal veterinarian both just after purchase, to ensure that husbandry and feeding requirements are being met, and annually to make sure tortoises stay healthy. In general, all tortoises carry some gastrointestinal parasites. Thus, their feces should be checked, and they should be de-wormed at least once. Proper preventative medicine, particularly with reptiles, whose health depends so much on their environmental conditions, is essential to helping ensure your tortoise’s well-being.
Above adapted with permission from the Zoological Education Network.

Environmental Requirements

  • Warm and humid: red-footed, yellow-footed, elongated, Burmese brown, Burmese black, Galapagos, Aldabra, Hinge back tortoises
  • Warm and dry: Sulcata, leopard, Egyptian, pancake, desert, radiated tortoises
  • Temperate and dry: Greek, Hermann’s, Russian, marginated tortoises

Housing

The larger the enclosure, the better. Aquariums, plastic containers, and reptile tubs all acceptable for smaller species. See www.kingsnake.com andwww.waterland.com for suggestions.

Larger species need penned off areas such as small rooms, screened in areas outside, or garages. Ensure all enclosures are safe from predators. Must have a secure, “night house” (i.e. wood box) for shade and safety. These houses may need radiant heaters during cooler nights.

Prevent accidental escapes by burying a foot of hardware cloth 8 inches deep around the perimeter of the outdoor area and placing at least a 2-foot high fence above ground.

Temperature

  • In general, depending on the species, provide air temperature range from mid-70s to 90-100˚F (in basking area)
  • At least 2 thermometers in cage is essential, with one on each end
  • Under-tank heat mats, pads, and heat tiles work well
  • Ensure heating mats, pads, and heat tiles are on timed thermostats to prevent overheating and fires
  • May need to provide additional air heaters (heat lamps or bulbs) to ensure air temperatures are warm enough
  • Water in enclosure must also be warm (mid-70s-80˚F)

Lighting

  • Best light is natural sunlight, unfiltered by window (glass filters out necessary rays)
  • Exposure to natural sunlight during warm months, even in colder climates, is ideal
  • House outdoors as much as climate permits
  • Whether inside or outside, provide a shade area to prevent overheating
  • Full-spectrum lighting containing wavelengths in the UVB spectrum (290-320 nm) is essential
  • UVB light is essential in making vitamin D in skin, which enables reptile to metabolize calcium properly and to maintain healthy bones
  • Typically, bulbs are either incandescent or fluorescent
  • Incandescent (traditional screw-in) full-spectrum bulbs provide visible (infrared) light and some heat. Most produce some UV light but not in the required UVB spectrum
  • Incandescent bulbs are good for producing heat but not UV light. Will likely need more than one incandescent bulb of varying wattage when using these bulbs for heat
  • Mercury vapor bulbs produce UVB and some heat. May need additional incandescent bulb for heat when using mercury vapor bulbs for UV light
  • Fluorescent, coiled, screw-in bulbs produce UVB and light, but little heat. Some compact fluorescent bulbs produce excess UVB and can cause “snow blindness” or conjunctivitis. Will likely need additional heat source (incandescent bulb, halogen bulb, or under-tank heater) when using fluorescent bulb
  • Combination units have full-spectrum fluorescent and halogen spot light for heat
  • Bulbs producing UVB and visible light should be on 10-12 hours per day
  • Change UV bulbs every 6 months
  • Full-spectrum lights must be about 1.5 feet away from where tortoise sits to provide adequate UV light

Humidity

  • Maintain humidity at 50-60% for most species
  • Monitor humidity levels with a hygrometer, available in pet stores
  • Need large water bowl for tortoise to be able to get into, but change water daily and clean bowls with disinfectant (dilute bleach, thoroughly rinsed) to decrease pathogens, since tortoises often defecate in water
  • Mist tortoise daily
  • Soak juvenile tortoises for 20 minutes twice a week to stimulate eating and promote defecation
  • Live plants help increase humidity
  • Humidifiers and drip systems available if very dry

Substrate

  • Slick surfaces (glass, plastic, newspaper) aren’t good because they don’t enable feet to grab
  • Acceptable substrates: pelleted recycled paper products (Yesterday’s News®, Carefresh®), reptile carpet (like astro-turf), sphagnum moss (although tortoises sometimes ingest this, so use small amount on top of other substrate). Mulch is not recommended because it is hard to keep clean and some tortoises ingest it, leading to gastrointestinal blockage
  • Avoid sand, soil, Calcisand®, rocks, walnut shells, coconut husks, wood shavings, as all may be ingested and cause gastrointestinal blockage

Diet

The general recommendation for most tortoises, depending on species, is to feed commercially available high fiber pellets as the basis of the diet, supplemented with fresh vegetables and small amounts of fruit, with unlimited amounts of grass hay or untreated/unfertilized grass. Avoid feeding excessive amounts of asparagus, beets, and kale, as these may be associated with urinary tract problems if fed in excess. Some commercially available pelleted diets made for tortoises are too high (>24%) in starch and should be offered only in very small amounts. Tortoises should receive supplemental calcium without vitamin D3 dusted on their food every other day.

Supplements

Tortoises also should be supplemented 2-3 times per week with a calcium supplement (phosphorus-free) without vitamin D3 dusted on food every day when they are growing and every other day when they’re adults. Tortoises should also be supplemented with a general multi-vitamin 1-2 times per month.

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